Shoe.



y A. L. RUSSELL.

l sHoB. v APPLIOATION FILED NOV. 20, 19 3\ wwf/V705..

MTA/[555g THE MORRISv PETERS Co., IHOTO-LlTlfm., WASHvINGION. D, c.

narran sfrarns earn-.nr onirica.'

mennen/negaron ondernemen, nas'sienneseres, semence.. To emmen snee MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, JERSEY, A, COBPORATI'GN '0F yNEW JERSEY.

SHOE.

Maaate.

To all 'whom t may concern.

Be it known that I, ARTHUR L. RUSSELL, a citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, in the county 'of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Shoes, of which the following description, in Aconnection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to the manufacture of boots and shoes and this application isa division of an application Serial No. 597 ,851, led Dec. 17, 1910, for improvements in the manufacture of boots and shoes. A present general practice is to overwerk the upper into lasted position about the toe end ofthe last by wipers that have acting edges shaped to embrace the toe portion of the shoe 'and lay the upper over the margin of the innersole to which it is tacked in McKay shoes. The innersoles of welt and turn shoes Aare provided with upstanding lips or other formations that present a shoulder against which the upper is lasted. A binder of wire or other `continuous material has been generally employed to secure the upper in lasted position by anchoring it at one end to a tack and drawing it tightly about the upper around the toe to bind it againstthe shoulder of the innersole after which it is anchored under tension to another tack.

One obj ect of this invention is to improve shoes in respect tothe retention of the up per in lasted position, or tovboth the shaping and the retention of the upper, particularly at the end of the shoe. y

A feature of this invention consists in the combination with a shoe upper an end portion of which is overworked about the end of the last or a form, of means secured eX- clusively to the surface of the overworked upper to maintain the upper in overworked position.

Another feature of the invention consists in a lshoe having an upper the margin yof which at one end 'of the shoe is gathered inwardly Iinto position to overlie the innersole and is permanently shrunk on a curved line located to come inside the edgeof the .innersole and shorter than the edge line of the innersole to form a toe pocket, or it might be a heel pocket, .in the upper. p

Either of these features may be employed Specification 'of Letters Patent Patented J an. f2, 1915.

invited and this application filed November separately or both together, the invention being illustrated in the accompanying drawings-as embodied in a lasted toe portion of a shoe having both features, although it will be understood that the invention is applicable not only to the lasting operation as generally practised but also to the preparatory formation yof toes and heels prelimipary to assembling with 'an innersole on a ast.

A binder is herein shown as a non-metallic strip of suitable proportions which ispr'ovided with an adhesive by which 'it sticks to the upper. Ity will be readily understood that vthe binder holds the upper over the end of 'the toelarg'ely byconfining it i-n over wiped position fand that for servingthis purpose the bindermay be caused to adhere at its ends only at lthe sides 'ofthe toe. Preferably, however, the binder will be made adhesive throughout its length and by sticking to the upper it will prevent the upper from Vslipping under it at any point. It may be sewed `into the shoe 'and thus continue permanently to bind the upper over the toe.

The adhesive used on the binder may be of any suitable kind although it will advantageously be one ofthe varieties that are non-sticky while dry and at ordinary tempera-tures. In `accordance with a further feature of the yinvention the binder is coated with an ladhesive Ythat is :rendered sticky by heat and the lasting apparatus -or other means by the aid fof which itis applied may conveniently include means for heating the binder to cause the adhesive to stick to the shoe upper as fully explained in said copending application.

The shrinking o'f the flange lof the `upper to contract it and reduce the elasticity of theleather for the purpose described is done byllocal yapplication of heat to the upper leather along the line or strip which it is desired to contract. The heat treatment stiffens the leather `more or less on that line and, by the contraction and by the stiffening and the loss of elasticity, reduces the tendwill appear more fully from the following detailed description and will then be pointed out in the claims.

Figure 1 shows the toe portion of a welt shoe having the upper treated and secured in accordance with this invention; Fig. 2 is a perspective view of the binder; Fig. 3 shows a McKay shoe embodying this invention.

In making a shoe embodying this invention, apparatus such for example as that shown in said co-pending application Serial No. 597,851 may be used. This machine includes toe lasting wipers of usual type which are used as is customary, and as fully explained in said application, to gather the margin of the end portion of the upper into lasted position over the toe of the innersole, or a last, or it might be any toe or a heel form, to produce a flange and if they are heated they will smoothly iron the fiange and heat it to prepare it for the adhesive binder to stick effectively to it. When the wipers are partially backed away from the shoulder 32 of the innersole or from the upstanding portion 34 of the upper which they have pressed against the shoulder, a strip or strand 30 of binding material coated with adhesive on its back will be placed about the toe in the space opened up by backing off the wipers. This strip may advantageously be thin fabric or paper rendered stiff by the adhesive and capable of standing on edge with the adhesive against the upstanding portion 34 of the upper. Tf the upper has become heated by the wipers, that heat may be suficient to cause the binder to adhere to the upper. The binder may be further heated, particularly at its end portions. For this purpose end rubbers, c. g., such as are shown and described in said application Serial No. 597,851 may be used and advantageously the heated wipers may be again advanced to force the binder into intimate contact with the upstanding upper and to heat and soften the adhesive to make it stick. The binder heating means may remain in contact with the binder only for the necessary time to allowT the heat to act on the adhesive and then be partially backed away where the wipers continue to hold the upper from slacking back while the adhesive sets into holding condition.

The action of the heated wipers may be more than enough tosoften and smoothly iron the upper. The wipers may advantageously be suiiiciently heated and left standing in contact with the work long enough, as in said partially backed ofi' position, to shrink or contract the fiange as at 33 and substantially reduce the elasticity of the portion so shrunk. This contraction will occur, in case they are left standing on the upper after having been partially backed away from the binder, on a line extending around the toe inside of the curved edge line of the innersole, and therefore shorter than said edge line, and will assist in rendering permanent the toe pocket in the upper. The heat treatment of the upper also stiffens the flange of the upper more or less which further assists in rendering its shape permanent. The shrinking of the flange of the upper for the purpose described might, obviously, be effected in other ways than that described, as for example by the use of some other heated instrument than the wipers, such as a crescent shaped branding iron applied to the flange after the wipers have been backed away to uncover the portion that is to be shrunk by heat.

n The stiffening of the stock by heat preferably does not extend over or is at a minimum at the rounded edge of the shoe and, as will be understood, the binder when used pro tects from the stiffening action of the heat the portion of the upper through which the inseam stitches are to be made in a welt shoe. In a McKay shoe, Fig. 3, the usual location for the stitching line is inside of where it would be desirable to have the maximum effect of the heat.

The heel end portion of an upper may be treated similarly to the toe by the action of heat to contract and stiffen the overwiped flange, or by fastening it with a binderv secured exclusively to the surface of the overworked upper to maintain it in overworked position, the binder for the heel being advantageously a crescent or other similarly shaped piece of fabric coated on its lower side with adhesive.

The improvement in methods of making shoes herein disclosed is claimed in a copending application Serial No. 711,618, filed July 26, 1912, and the improvement in toe binders herein disclosed is claimed in copending application Ser. No. 711,647, filed July 26, 1912.

Having explained the nature of the presentinvention, T claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States:

1. The combination with a shoe upper the toe portion of which is overworked around the toe end of the last and over upon the margin of the toe of the innersole and is free from fastenings connecting it to the innersole, of a narrow non-metallic binding strip or band curved around the toe and united exclusively to the outer surface of the overworked upper inside the edge of the innersole on a line shorter than the original edge line of the toe portion of the vamp.

2. The combination with a shoe upper the toe portion of which is overworked around the toe end of the last and over upon the feather and against the lip of the toe of a welt innersole, of a non-metallic toe binder in the 'Eo'rm of a narrow strip united vby fadhesive at its end portions and also intermediate its end portions to the outer lsurface exclusively lof the uppery between said innersole lip rand the edge of the shoe bottom.

3. The combination with a shoe upper the toeportion of which is overworked around the toe end of the last and over upon the feather of an innersole to present an upstanding flange against the lip 'or shoulder of the innersole, of a toe binder comprising an adhesive coated strip standing on edge with its coated face against and united by the adhesive to the said upstanding flange of upper.

4. The combination with a shoe upper the toe portion of which is overworked around the toe end of the last and gathered inwardly over upon the margin of the toe of the innersole, of a toe binder in the form of a narrow strip coated with adhesive that is nonesticky at normal temperatures and has been made by heat to unite the binder permanently to the outer surface exclusively of the inwardly gathered margin of the overworked upper in position to hold said margin in overworked relation to the last, said binder being of non-metallic material whereby it oers no obstruction to a subsequent sewing or inseam trimming voperation on the shoe.

5. In a shoe the combination with an upper the toe portion of which has been lasted about the toe of a last and the fringe of which has been gathered inwardly from the end and sides of the toe of the last to form the toe pocket of the shoe, of a binder of narrow non-metallic sheet material united to the upper around the end of the toe and exclusively to the outer face of the gathered fringe of the upper and adapted to be sewed into the welt or sole attaching seam and become a permanent part of the shoe.

6. In a shoe the combination with an upper the toe portion of which has been lasted about the toe of a last and the fringe of which has been gathered inwardly from the end and sides of the toe of the last to form the toe pocket of the shoe and is free from any fastenings connecting it to an innersole upon the last bottom, of a narrow strip of sheet material permanently united to the outer face exclusively of said gathered fringe around the end of the toe and located exclusively between the edge of the toe and the edge of the inwardly gathered fringe of the upper.

7. In a shoe, an innersole and an upper lasted over the margin of the curved end of the innersole and permanently shrunk on a curved line extending around the end of the innersole and shorter than the edge line of the innersole to form with the innersole a toe pocket. l

8. In a shoe, an upper having the margin of en'd portion gathered inwardly to overlie Aan innersole and permanently shrunk on a curved line located to come inside the edge of the innersole and shorter than the edge line ofthe innersole to form a toe pocket.

9. In a shoe, 'an upper having themargin ofv `an end portion gathered inwardly forinside the edge of the innersole end and shorter than the edge line of said innersole end, and a binder applied to the flange also on a line shorter than said edge line to hold the upper from returning from the shape given to it.

l1. The combination with a shoe upper, an end portion of which is `overworked about the end of the last, of a narrow curved strip of binding material secured exclusively to the outer surface of the overworked upper between the edge of the shoe bottom and the edge of the fringe of the upper to maintain the upper in overworked position- 12. In a shoe, an upper of elastic material one end portion of which is shaped to conform to the contour of an end of a last and present a flange extending inwardly over the margin of the last bottom and has the elasticity of the shaped portion of the material that lies upon the last bottom reduced on a line embracing the end of the shoe bottom relatively to that portion of the upper which surrounds the side faces of the last end.

13. In a shoe, an upper the margin of one end portion of which is gathered inwardly and ironed down to constitute a flange to overlie the curved end portion of the shoe innersole, said flange being permanently stiffened and shrunk on a line embracing the last end and relatively to the adjacent part of the upper lying against the side faces of the last end, substantially as described, to set the flange in lasted position.

14. A weltl shoe comprising an innersole having a feather and a lip, an upper having its margin gathered and lasted inwardly over the feather and against the lip of the toe portion of the innersole, and a narrow non-metallic toe binding strip secured to the outer surface only of the upper between the edge of the innersole and said lip around the toe and maintaining the upper in lasted relation to the innersole.

15. A welt shoe comprising an innersole having a feather and a lip, and an upper ln testimony whereof I have signed my having its margin gathered and lasted name to this specication in the presence l0 inwardly over the feather and against of two subscribing witnesses.

the lip of the toe portion of the innersole, ARTHUR L. RUSSELL.

' said upper being locally shrunk along a line located between the edge of the innersole Witnesses: and said lip and extending around the toe HARLow M. DAVIS, as and for the purpose described. HOWARD O. WINSLOW.

vGopes of this patent may be obtained for ve cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, '.D. C. 

